I went to the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum to see Lucie Rie’s vessels. That was the plan, anyway, but let me confess up front: partway through, the building stole my heart. I tried, I really did, but it was a losing battle (lol).
The green path from the main gate to the main building
Once through the main gate, a path lined with tall trees leads to the main building. Even before seeing the exhibition, just walking here felt wonderful.
At the end of the path stands the main building, the former Prince Asaka Residence, built in 1933 as the family home of Prince Asaka. The moment I saw it head-on, my inner voice slipped out: “What a beautiful building. Still love it.”
An hour until entry: a garden stroll and a café
This exhibition uses timed-entry tickets. The earliest slot I could buy on the spot was about an hour away, so I picked up a garden map and wandered the grounds. Seen from the garden side, the windows of the main building were reflecting the clouds, giving it a completely different look from the front.
After that, café TEIEN for a nut-topped tart and a cup of tea. A seat with a view of the garden, and a leisurely wait. The Lucie Rie collaboration cake was already sold out by late afternoon… If the collaboration cake is your goal, going early seems to be the way.
Arranging imaginary flowers in a white vase
When my time slot came, into the galleries at last. Lucie Rie is one of the defining ceramic artists of the twentieth century, and this is Japan’s first retrospective in about a decade. The buzz is real, and so are the crowds.
My favorite was a white vase shaped a bit like a jar. I imagined what it would look like with flowers in it, and it was gorgeous. Only in my imagination, of course 🤣 The blues were lovely too, but I fell for the whites.
The thinness of the rims is truly beautiful. Just looking, I found myself imagining how they would feel against the lips, and nearly melted. The wide, shallow bowls have a form that is perfect from every angle; I could not stop looking. Even the reflections of the vessels in the glass cases were beautiful. I surrender.
Poised and dignified, yet somehow so approachable. These are vessels that feel like they are right there beside you, quietly reassuring.
Reading the collection credits was fun too, and I found myself nodding: the Oyamazaki Villa Museum of Art really does have a fine collection. Now I want to go back there soon 🍃
In the annex gallery, white thread-like material hangs from the ceiling in sweeping curves. Lovely. The thin-lined arrow sign at the entrance was adorable as well.
Architecture over Lucie Rie (lol)
And then, the main building. Right inside the entrance, the guest washroom is already beautiful, with its decorative glass.
The Great Dining Hall has a marble fireplace, a mural above it, a geometric ceiling, and René Lalique’s ceiling light “Pineapples and Pomegranates.” Food motifs are worked into the decoration everywhere; there is simply too much to look at.
The staircase with its red carpet is just too beautiful.
And then the Study. A circular room with wood-paneled walls, a curved glass-topped desk, and built-in bookshelves. Imagining those shelves packed with books was almost too much! I want a study like this. What were they reading?! I want to time-travel!!!!
The balcony glimpsed through curtains, the arched openings, the greenery beyond the glass doors, the mosaic tiles in the entrance hall. Every single detail is too cute. The guardian lion-dogs at the entrance look a little out of place in an Art Deco mansion, but hey, you look very cool 🦁
Wrapping up
Stepping outside afterward: evening clouds and the main building. I could gaze at it forever. The fact that there is a bench right here… I get it, I really get it.
Lucie Rie’s vessels were wonderful. No question. But the building was simply too overwhelmingly beautiful. Next time I will come when the exhibition puts the building itself center stage.
On the walk to Meguro Station, flags for the exhibition in different designs lined the street, as if the afterglow had been arranged for me too. I do remember the vessels. Probably.
