A tiny fragment of stone resting on my palm looked just like an island floating in the Seto Inland Sea. That one photo alone made the trip to Inujima worth it. As always, today was the best.
What Is the Inujima Seirensho Art Museum?
Inujima is a small island on the Okayama side of the Seto Inland Sea. It was once home to a copper refinery that closed after only about ten years of operation, and the museum preserves and breathes new life into those remains. The karami bricks, made from slag, and the chimney stand out against the blue sky: industrial ruins, yet somehow refreshing.
This time I took the ferry from Takamatsu Port via Teshima. With the autumn session of the Setouchi Triennale 2025 drawing to a close, the boat was nearly full. So many visitors from overseas; I could hear Italian and French all around me.
Still, once I stepped onto the island, the air felt surprisingly unhurried.
Joining the Guided Tour
At the museum, I joined a guided tour led by a staff member. You gather at the entrance at set times, and tours seem to run several times a day.
I got to hear so many stories you would never learn just by looking, and it was genuinely fun. One of them: on an island visible from Inujima, there are remains of quarries that once supplied stones for the walls of Osaka Castle. The history of these stone islands goes back long before the refinery, and it changed the way I see the Setouchi region a little. Apparently Shodoshima has quarry sites too, so I would love to visit. I want to hunt for the Kuroda family’s chiselled crests.
By the way, from March 2026 the museum has switched from free-flow viewing to timed guided tours. The experience that made me think “I am so glad I joined!” is now the standard style. If you are planning a visit, I recommend checking the meeting times on the official website beforehand.
An Island in which Even Fallen Things Look Like Art
On the way to the museum, I found a small fragment of stone. Probably a piece of something born in the refinery. You cannot take it home, so I settled for placing it on my palm and taking a photo. With the sea behind it, it looked just like a tiny island floating in the Seto Inland Sea. It became a favourite shot. The stone is adorable.
In a hollow of a stone wall, a persimmon that had fallen naturally. Lit by the sun, even its slow decay felt precious somehow. And a little orange mushroom sitting quietly in the grass.
When you walk around believing it is an art island, everything on the ground starts to look like a work of art. It is uncanny. Everything is special. What on earth is this island magic? (laughs)
Final Thoughts
Before the boat home, I had a lemon squash at the cafe next to the information centre by the port. This is Setouchi, after all; it had to be lemon. Refreshing and delicious.
As I sipped it gazing at the sea, quiet island time flowed by, as if the packed ferry had been a dream. Outside the festival period, they say the island is even quieter. I would love to meet that Inujima too someday. And yes, the ferry home was packed as well (laughs).
