One of Japan’s twelve surviving original keeps (genson tenshu), and the very first castle that Tōdō Takatora built for himself — that’s Uwajima Castle. I set off thinking only “Yes! Takatora!” and completely failed to check that it sits on top of a hill… In 31°C heat in May, I climbed in fits and starts, resting the whole way. And still — today, too, was the best.
See the walking route in photos → Castle Hopping: Uwajima Castle Route Map (May 2026)
What kind of castle is Uwajima Castle?
Uwajima Castle was completed in 1601 by Tōdō Takatora, a warlord famous as a master of castle building. This was the first castle Takatora built for himself as a daimyo — even earlier than Imabari Castle. So I, too, made it here before Imabari Castle. (I make it sound intentional, but honestly? Pure coincidence. lol)
Seen from above, the castle forms an irregular pentagon — another of Takatora’s tricks, meant to fool enemies into thinking it was a square and to create blind spots. Records show a shogunate spy actually reported it as “square.” It worked! Nice one, Takatora!
Later, Date Hidemune, the eldest son of Date Masamune, moved in, and the castle stayed the seat of the Uwajima Date family for nine generations until the Meiji era. The keep you see today was rebuilt around 1666 by the second lord, Date Munetoshi, and is a nationally designated Important Cultural Property.
Through the shopping arcade and up to the castle
Walking from Uwajima Station, I spotted a bullfighting manhole cover at my feet. Come to think of it, Uwajima is a bullfighting town — had no idea. A little further on, a green demon manhole. This one is the ushi-oni (“ox-demon”), the star of a local Uwajima festival. Didn’t know that either~. Learning a town’s claims to fame straight from its manhole covers is honestly kind of great. Should I start a “Learn it from the manhole!” series…? lol
The climbing entrance (tōjōguchi) past the arcade was under construction, so I started from a temporary entrance. From there it was stone steps, up and up. It was so hot that my parasol and the sour dried plums I’d grabbed at the station saved me over and over. Sour plums at a castle — highly recommended!
Touring Takatora’s stone walls
The first stone wall I met, at the Nagatomaru bailey, was big, tall, and wide. There was a bench in the shade, so I rested here too. Spacing out alone in front of a stone wall with no one around — what a luxury. And honestly, this bench is placed exactly like it’s there for people who want to soak in the stone walls, which I love.
Then the Fujibeemaru stone wall. According to the sign, it’s the oldest stone wall in the castle — meaning it still keeps the features of the era when Takatora built the place. My excitement went through the roof. Takatora’s work from over 400 years ago, right in front of me…! So cool!
The stone walls deeper in, around the Shikibumaru, also had me thinking “aren’t these Takatora’s too?” as I gazed at them. No proof whatsoever. (laughs)
The compact surviving keep
Climb the final flight of steps and the white keep pops into view, perched neatly. Smaller than I expected, and cute. The inside is compact too, and a steep staircase gets you to the top floor in no time.
The view from the top floor was… honestly, my head was foggy from the heat and I barely remember it. (laughs) Looking back at my photos later, Uwajima Bay and the port town were beautifully framed. Guess I was paying attention after all. But in my head, the only thought running was: is there a vending machine somewhere…? (laughs) For the record, there isn’t one at the keep — it’s down by the children’s park in which the public restrooms are.
Behind the ticket counter there’s a 100 Famous Castles stamp corner, so I stamped my book there. I bought the goshuin (a commemorative castle seal) and the castle card at the ticket counter. I’d been determined to photograph the keep and the goshuin together — and completely forgot, heading back down the hill. Let’s blame the heat.
Wrapping up
This time I ran out of both time and stamina, so there were spots I missed here and there. I wanted to linger over Takatora’s stone walls a lot longer, so I’ll be back in a cooler season.
From the train home, I caught a glimpse of Ōzu Castle perched on its hill!! Next time, the plan is to tour Uwajima Castle and Ōzu Castle together. I stamped the Anpanman stamps at Uwajima Station and Matsuyama Station too (Anpanman is a beloved children’s character, and Shikoku — his creator’s home region — runs Anpanman-themed trains), and that was my day. These little bonuses are one of the great things about Shikoku. The kids getting way too excited about them were adorable too 😄
