At the mountain castle wrapped in fog, the thing that stole my eye was not the keep. It was the Niju Yagura, a two-storey turret standing on top of the bedrock. It looked so cool that I stubbornly took photo after photo. Once again, it was a perfect day.
🗺️ See the route I walked in photos → Castle Hopping: Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle Route Map (October 2026)
What Kind of Castle Is Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle?
Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle stands at around 430 metres on Mt Gagyu (Gagyuzan) in Takahashi City, Okayama Prefecture. It is one of the “12 original castle keeps” that have survived since the Edo period. Apparently, it is the only mountain castle in Japan whose keep still stands. The keep, the Niju Yagura, plus part of the earthen walls are National Important Cultural Properties.
From Bitchu-Takahashi Station, a shared sightseeing taxi can take you as far as Fuigo Pass, about eight-tenths of the way up. From there, you climb on foot.
By the way, it is also known as the castle with a cat lord, Sanjuro.
A Foggy Mountain Castle, Practically a Hike
The Yakumo First, Then the Station Starbucks
It all started with the Yakumo limited express pulling into the platform, with me getting excited: “Here it comes!” The new trains are clean inside, with plenty of room. The ride was comfortable, too. There are even seats called two-person compartments. Looks fun.
Bitchu-Takahashi Station is a laid-back station, with little more than a convenience store plus a taxi rank outside. I had arrived early in the morning, wondering how to kill time. Then I found a Starbucks at the station, which saved me. After a short break, I checked in for the shared taxi at the tourist information centre, then off I went (bookings close at 17:00 the day before).
“This Is a Mountain Hike!” from Fuigo Pass
When I got out of the taxi at Fuigo Pass, the sign said “20 minutes on foot”. Beyond a small signpost lay a mountain path of fallen leaves, with rocks poking out. This is a mountain hike! (lol)
Along the way stood the lord’s “Rules for Climbing to the Castle”: “Do not hurry. Walk slowly.” Got it! I thought. Then the very next sign was already warning me: “The footing ahead is poor. Walk with care.”
With the rain, the footing was bad. I walked carefully so as not to slip, which left me out of breath. The long stone steps kept going, with no stone walls in sight, nothing at all. I felt nothing but worry… Still, the thought of finally reaching Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle, which I had been looking forward to, filled me with excitement. Tiredness? Not a problem. It must have taken more than 15 minutes, yet it felt like about five.
Stone Walls in the Fog, a Compact Keep
At last, stone walls came into view beyond the fog. After a little mountain hike, something built by human hands was a relief to see. The stone walls with their stone steps, wrapped in fog: beautiful.
The white walls were lined with loopholes, some round, some square (sama: holes for firing guns, also for shooting arrows). Just before the Honmaru (the main enclosure), loopholes plus ishi-otoshi (openings in a jutting floor for hurling stones down on attackers, among other things) lay in wait. If I were on the attacking side, I would be done for…
The keep I looked up at in the Honmaru was compact. Yet it had a really lovely presence.
Inside the Keep, Absorbed in the Woodwork
Through the small entrance into the keep. This time, I looked through the loopholes I had seen from outside, but from the inside.
There was an irori (a sunken hearth) in the floor. This might be the first time I have seen one inside a castle! I love looking up at ceilings, so I took my time studying how the beams fit together. At the foot of a pillar, a piece of wood in a different colour had been joined on. Repaired with new timber, maybe? It made me curious.
The groove above a sliding door looked no different from those on sliding doors today. Finding things that have never changed makes me happy. I climbed a steep staircase that turns partway up. On the upper floor, the natural light coming in through the lattice windows was beautiful.
I got the gojoin (castle seal) plus a castle card at the admission ticket window in the Honmaru. I also took a souvenir photo with the keep in the background.
The Niju Yagura on the Bedrock
After the keep, I went round the back from the Ninomaru (the second enclosure). There it stood: the Niju Yagura. The sight of it standing on huge bedrock was just too cool. I found myself looking at it more than at the keep.
The weathered wooden door, the moss-covered rock face, the uneven stone steps beside the turret. This might be my favourite spot of all. Before I knew it, I had stubbornly taken photo after photo (lol)
Stone walls were firmly built along the mountainside too. So evocative.
The Omatsuyama Castle Ruins: Homework for Next Time
Walking round the back, I came across a “Beware of mamushi (pit vipers)” notice. Wait, what? 😱
Beyond it was a signpost to the Omatsuyama Castle ruins. I wanted to go, but I had the shared taxi back to catch, so I gave up for today. Next time. When I peeked down the path, it looked like yet another mountain hike ⛰️ This visit was pretty much a scouting trip anyway, so I am fine with that.
On the way back, too, I was enchanted by the stone walls. However stubbornly I looked back at the keep, the fog never cleared (lol) The nawabari (the layout of the castle’s enclosures), seen from above, is precious. The stone walls stacked tier upon tier are so cool. Way too strong.
On the way down, the lord’s sign said: “For your climb today, well done.” Why, thank you! This time I came in comfortable trainers, but next time I will come back in hiking boots for a rematch.
The Yakumo Home, Too
Back at the station, in a word: that was fun!
For a souvenir, I bought Cat Lord Sanjuro senbei crackers, because they were cute. I never got to meet Sanjuro himself, though (lol) On the way back, I bought a coffee at Starbucks again, then took the Yakumo home at a leisurely pace.
The riverside view from the window was lovely, as expected. I love the views from the Yakumo. I also took photos of the two-person compartments, plus the four-person ones, that had caught my eye on the way there. I didn’t sit in them, though… I’m travelling solo, after all! (lol)
Summary
It never properly cleared up, right to the end. But a keep in the fog is something you rarely get to see, plus the rain-soaked plants were beautiful too. I think it was good in its own way.
The keep was lovely, but my number one was the Niju Yagura standing on the bedrock. Next time, on a clear day, I want to walk all the way to the Omatsuyama Castle ruins. I might come back again before the year is out.
