What I’d really come for that night was Nakamura Tsurumatsu’s *Amagoi Gitsune* (the rain-praying fox dance). I’d booked my ticket the moment I heard it would be his name-taking (shumei) performance… but, well. As always, today was the best.
What is the Saruwaka Festival?
Held every February at the Kabukiza, the *Saruwakasai* (Saruwaka Festival) is a celebratory run tied to the very origins of Edo kabuki, with deep roots in the Nakamura-ya acting lineage. This year marks its 50th anniversary, apparently.
The evening program had three pieces: *Ichinotani Futaba Gunki*, *Amagoi Gitsune*, and *Umegoyomi*. Today, though, I was here for the fox.
“Dobu” seats-my kind of best seat
My seat this time was what’s called a “dobu” seat-the seats right alongside the *hanamichi* (the raised walkway that runs through the audience to the stage), in which you can look up at the actors as they pass close by. The daytime program had me in a proper, dead-center “gachi hana-yoko” seat right against the hanamichi-but honestly, I love them both.
Easy to see, as always. For me, it’s a familiar best seat in the house.
The fox I came for-but…
Yes, that night I was here for Tsurumatsu’s fox. I won’t say much-just: please come back soon! I’m cheering for you, and I’ll wait as long as it takes!
So, *Amagoi Gitsune* was danced by Nakamura Kankuro and Nakamura Shichinosuke instead. For the two of them it was probably meant to be a little breather before the next piece, I imagined. And honestly-I’d come to see Tsurumatsu, so I wanted to see Tsurumatsu. (Well, of course.)
But the moment the curtain rose-even though I already knew-wait, it’s Kankuro and Shichinosuke?! Sorry, Tsurumatsu, this is *amazing*! And just like that, I was swept away (laugh).
Simply put: the best. Even now, just remembering it makes me grin-the two of them are burned into my memory.
Today was a medetai-yaki day
At the interval, I had a “medetai-yaki” from the third floor of the Kabukiza-a taiyaki (fish-shaped cake) filled with red-and-white mochi.
I got to eat my medetai-yaki today, and I’m happy ❤️
Wrap-up
It turned out differently from what I’d planned-and yet (or maybe *because* of that?) it became an incredibly rewarding night. Kabuki is a living thing. The chance encounters of that day, that moment-all of it is an experience you can have only once. It must have been hard on Kankuro and Shichinosuke too, but as a fan, it was the best.
Tsurumatsu’s *Amagoi Gitsune*-someday, surely. Until then, I’ll wait, taking my time. (Too long? Am I being clingy? lol-no really, please hurry home.)
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