By the time I reached Asakusa, it looked like I’d have plenty of time before the afternoon show, so I wandered around Sensoji for a bit. I’d dropped my bags at the hotel, so I could move around light — lovely. And yes, today was wonderful as always.
What is New Year Asakusa Kabuki?
Held every January at Asakusa Public Hall, “New Year Asakusa Kabuki” is a kind of proving ground in which up-and-coming actors take on big roles. The programs are bright and festive for the season — and the tickets are pretty affordable too (💰 which, honestly, matters). A great fit for a first kabuki experience, I think.
Its signature feature is the “Otoshidama (New Year’s Greetings)” that opens each part: a different cast member appears each day to give a New Year’s greeting. Usually, when you buy your ticket, you have no idea who’ll be on for your date — but it’s a “no-losing-ticket lottery,” in which whoever it turns out to be, you’re happy (lol).
For this day (Part 2), the program included Chikamatsu Monzaemon’s “Keisei Hangonko,” plus the cherry-blossom-filled dance piece “Meoto Dojoji.”
A Pre-Show Stroll Around Asakusa
I’d seen Kaminarimon before, but I think this was my first proper visit to Sensoji itself.
The main target of my stroll was the statue of Ichikawa Danjuro. As it turns out, this statue depicts Ichikawa Danjuro IX performing “Shibaraku,” one of the eighteen great kabuki plays. The original was lost to wartime metal collection, and the current one was rebuilt in 1986, apparently. Looking up at it from behind, it was bigger and more imposing than I expected — so cool. And there was nobody else around, so I had it completely to myself, which meant, naturally, photographing it from every possible angle 📷
I’d really wanted to do a whole “kabuki landmarks” tour around the area, but there wasn’t enough time for that… (because I spent too long taking photos, lol).
The Lively Asakusa Public Hall
Step inside and, right by the entrance, there’s a whole spread of bento and souvenirs. The energy of the stalls nearly had me buying a bento — but no, my stomach was full. I held back this time. Although, if someone says “so-and-so’s favorite~,” I’m a goner (lol).
Ticket torn, into the hall I went. There’s a photo spot on the 2nd floor, but going solo means I can’t get in the shot with anyone, which is a little lonely… I kept wishing they’d set out a stand for selfies.
I also picked up a postcard set and took a quick photo of it from my seat. These little “ooh, lovely” moments are part of the fun.
Honestly, you’re busy before the curtain even goes up.
Otoshidama Was Sakon-nu Again — and, Again, a Story About Somegoro (lol)
This day’s Otoshidama greeting was by Onoe Sakon (my pet name for him: Sakon-nu)! Actually, last year’s Otoshidama was Sakon too, and back then he also talked about Ichikawa Somegoro — and this year, once again, it was a story about Somegoro (lol). Total déjà vu 😂
Danko, Somegoro, and Sakon are the same-generation trio among the very youngest kabuki actors right now. Precisely because there are so few peers their age, I suppose a friend’s name just naturally slips out at a celebratory moment like this. It had me grinning right along with them. And that same Sakon went on to take a major dancing role in the second piece, “Meoto Dojoji.” (There was even a talk event with the three of them on February 10! Sadly, I couldn’t get a ticket… 😢)
Wrapping Up
After the show, Asakusa was so quiet it was hard to believe it was the same place as the daytime crush. I strolled the near-empty Nakamise, and Kaminarimon at night had a lovely mood 🙆
The energy of the young actors, the New Year air of Asakusa, and a quiet evening reward. A promising start to the year. Tomorrow afternoon: Part 1! Can’t wait〜!
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