The day before, I’d been at Upopoy thinking “isn’t there somewhere I could learn more about the Ainu?” — and after some searching online, I somehow ended up at Hokkaido University. In the end I didn’t really learn much about the Ainu, but oh well. Another perfect day, as always.
What kind of place is Hokkaido University?
Just a short walk from Sapporo Station, this huge campus spreads out right in the heart of the city. Its predecessor was Sapporo Agricultural College, in which Dr. Clark — of “Boys, be ambitious” fame — served as the first vice-principal. Visitors can wander freely, there are Important Cultural Properties and even a museum, so it’s actually one of Sapporo’s top “sightseeing spots.” I tried to imagine what student life here would be like… and then remembered reports, seminars, and deadlines. I got a little gloomy. Shouldn’t have gone there (laugh).
Today’s walking route
On the walk over from Sapporo Station, there was a manhole cover with a Sapporo-style design underfoot. Spotting these is one of the little joys of a stroll.
After plenty of walking, I finally arrived. In through the main gate, then the statue of Dr. Clark, Furukawa Hall, the University Museum, the poplar avenue, and out through the North 13 Gate via the ginkgo avenue. About half a day of walking, all told.
See the walking route in photos → Travel Walks: Hokkaido University Route Map (April 2026)
A campus more like a town than I expected
The first thing that surprised me, once I’d passed through the main gate, was that cars just drive around inside the campus. Is this normal for universities in Japan? I’ve lived a life with little connection to sprawling campuses like this, so that alone caught me off guard. And it’s just so big. The students here would really struggle without a bicycle, I found myself worrying unnecessarily (laugh). I did see lots of people on bikes — students, I suppose?
Stroking the staircase at the University Museum
On to the University Museum, which I’d been looking forward to. Admission is free.
One of my goals was the dinosaur skeleton (a replica). I can’t explain it well, but standing in front of a skeleton always gets me a little excited. I also met a polar bear taxidermy. Simple soul that I am, it made me want to visit the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum.
My other goal was the building itself. It’s the former Faculty of Science main building, built in the early Showa era, and inside it’s a slightly church-like space, with arched windows and vaulted ceilings running throughout. I love old school staircases and always end up stroking them, and the one here was lovely too. I get the feeling I can almost see students from long, long ago walking up and down it. The attention to detail is everywhere, and it’s beautiful from any angle. I love that you don’t just admire the architecture from outside — you can step in and soak it all up.
And finally, I reached a small Ainu corner and watched all of the videos. Yes — the Ainu were the original goal. Mission accomplished here (laugh).
The forest next door, over the poplars
Hokudai’s famous poplar avenue was nearly all mine. No, it was entirely all mine (laugh).
That said, I didn’t actually walk it. I had plans afterward (ramen), so I just gazed down the straight avenue. That was plenty.
What stayed with me more was the lush, overgrown area beside the poplar avenue. All I could hear was the rustle of the trees and the calls of birds, with a pleasant breeze blowing through — the kind of place in which I felt I could stay forever. Lake Poroto at Upopoy was lovely, and so was this little garden. Spring in Hokkaido, with the scent of winter still lingering, really is the best season.
On the way out, I passed through the ginkgo avenue and left the campus via the North 13 Gate.
To finish: ramen at Ichiryuan
Leaving Hokudai, I headed for the ramen shop Ichiryuan 🍜 You can reserve through Tabelog. There’s a 100-yen seating charge, but even so, for a time-pressed tourist like me it’s a truly welcome system! When I arrived and gave my name, they showed me straight to a seat — even though there was a huge line outside…
I even bought some half-fresh ramen to take home as a souvenir! Something to look forward to back home ⭐️
Wrap-up
I went as a tourist, but the thing I liked best turned out to be the un-touristy forest — that was my Hokudai stroll. As for the Ainu, well, now I have an excuse to go back to Hokkaido to look into it again.
